🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.